Kratie

Seventy kilometres north of Kampong Cham on the east bank of the Mekong, Kratie is a charming, cheerful little town; best known for its dolphins which live in the Mekong River in ever-diminishing numbers. Roughly 80 of the dwindling population of these dolphins make their home off the village of Kampi, 20 kilometres north of Kratie. The swirling waters here are considered one of the best places in the world to catch sight of this critically endangered creature. Dolphin-watching trips can also be easily combined with a visit to the lovely hilltop meditation centre of Phnom Sambok and the temple and turtle conservation project at Sambor, further upriver, while the chance to explore nearby river islands, go kayaking or head off along the Mekong Discovery Trail may tempt you to linger longer.

Kratie has an expansive riverfront and some of the best Mekong sunsets in Cambodia. The town itself makes a pleasant spot to rest up for a night or two, with a decent clutch of hotels and some good restaurants lined up along the serene riverside. There is a rich legacy of French-era architecture, as it was spared the wartime bombing that destroyed so many other provincial centres.